Waking up on our second morning, groceries in the rental, a solid sleep behind us, we felt doing something “normal” might help us to feel grounded. Mindful of our schedule, we had most of the day until my work started at 4:00 p.m. Trev needed a run and I liked the idea of a long walk to stretch the legs. He had spotted a running path on the map that was down by the river. Lisbon is on the Tagus river and it is tidal in the area because it is so close to the Atlantic Ocean.
Not to be judgy or anything, but when I think about a waterfront, the safety factor could go either way. Maybe I’ve seen too many old movies and film noir, but sometimes waterfronts can be dicey places. Conversely, many cities recognize those areas as worth keeping somewhat safe and clean for locals and tourists alike. Photos of Lisbon’s waterfront looked like it could be ok but our plan was if we walked down and it was questionable, then instead of running Trev would just stay with me and we’d have a long walk together.
Yeah, that seems a silly thought now. I have no idea how long the area has been inviting, but Lisbon falls into that second category. The city has really made the waterfront a resource. It doesn’t mean there wasn’t grime and trash and a few folks who call it home 24/7. For me, the key to feeling comfortable in a recreation area like that is when you not only have lots of people around but can see single women walking or running. Especially when they appear to know exactly where they are going, that, to me, means they are local and consider it safe to go it alone. Good enough for me.
So Trev ran to the west and would at some point would double back and catch me walking. I headed east and was one among, frankly, hundreds of people walking, biking, running, walking dogs, and hanging out. It was a great walk for me. Due to the warmth and humidity, the view across the river to Lisbon was hazy and not anything to write home (or a blog) about. However, looking towards the city is something else entirely.
Continuing west, it is clear cafe culture is alive and well with many small kiosks and outdoor seating along the river. People watching is great. I saw a woman walking by on stilts and there are a couple of beach artists being creative to encourage people to throw coins, busking with art I guess. It is also great listening to all the languages going by reminds one of how special a place is when cultures mix. Interestingly, when it wasn’t Portuguese, I heard lots more French than English.
Commerce Plaza a.k.a. Palace Yard
One area opens up to a large plaza, the Praca do Comercio, with, of course, a statue of a really important Portuguese figure. It is of King Jose I, prominently in the center. A bit of research revealed that after the devastating 1755 earthquake and tsunami, this area was rebuilt during his reign. Interestingly, it was under the direction of his right-hand man, the Marquis de Pombal, who has his own commanding statue at what I think of as the top of the Avenida du Liberdade and may actually be a bit bigger. That might make sense when you read that he was the de facto ruler.
The wow factor is certainly there. Apparently, it is on that “must see” list for tourists that isn’t really on our radar. Many folks asked us what we were going to do and see while here. While there are a couple of activities (the Festas de Lisboa parade and Sintra) we wanted to check out, for us the joy is discovery. Even in a month we knew we couldn’t ‘see it all’ and wouldn’t want to try to cram in place after place. Part of the joy of this trip is soaking it up by living a daily life here and we’ve given ourselves the time to have freedom to wander without a plan or purpose.
Stumbling on this plaza was for both of us a surprise, actually. The huge, yellow stately buildings form a U around it. Trev called it the result of f*#! you money, albeit perhaps the reserves of what was left from Portugal’s vast empire days. It is also known as Terreiro do Paco, or Palace Yard, from pre-earthquake and pre-tsunami when the royal palace was here. I love history but must admit a great deal of ignorance to the story of Portugal. I’ve tried to make sure the little bits I throw in are accurate but no guarantees. It has been a fascinating read and I encourage anyone to dig a bit deeper thanks to the internet.
Aligned with the statue and center of the incredible arch is a river access that reaches out into the river by perhaps 30 feet. It has two pillars rising from the water on either side. Clearly old, but they look really old as if they were from the Roman period which seemed unlikely. Again, a bit of research revealed the pier and columns were completed in the late 1700’s and meant to echo a scene from Venice. So there you go.
Perhaps the tide was in when I saw them as I didn’t realize it was a pier as it appeared to just be steps out into the water. Apparently they did, or do, also serve a purpose for boat portage. Research revealed one quite famous portage was that of Queen Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh in 1957. There’s a whole bunch on their reunion on the royal yacht Brittania (which The Crown fans might enjoy) but the best thing I uncovered was a wonderful old British Pathe video of their arrival.
Alfama
Moving on westward on the walk, the views looking to the city are crazy amazing. You can really appreciate how hilly Lisbon is. The Castelo de Sao Jorge, or Castle of St. George, and its gorgeous trees (reminding me of the few Italian Stone Pine in Austin) cap one hill with the neighborhood of Alfama below it. The hill on which the castle sits is believed to have had human occupation on it since the 8th century B.C. People, really. That kind of history is staggering.
Light reading on it reads like a game through the ages of Kind of the Hill. Everybody wanted it, and it makes sense with its imposing height above the river. The neighborhood of Alfama descends down the hill and its mix of architecture, color, and texture is just stunning. I expect it has been painted and photographed time and again, many doing a much better job than me, but here you go.
Walk and run accomplished, we meet up both quite hot from the heat and humidity. We walked to a cafe for espresso (which is what you get if you order “coffee”) and split a simple egg sandwich, which is just that, egg on bread and nothing else. I’m not complaining, it tasted great and was fortifying for the walk back up the hill to Bairro Alto.
