As a result of our previous trip when in Lisbon, we were looking forward to the high quality of food again – both in restaurants as well as the markets. Porto didn’t disappoint on either front.
Those that know us know we like to cook at home and Trev much more than me. Cooking is a creative outlet for Trev. Any trip to a market for him is like a trip to an art supply store for me. We went to the Mercado Bolhão at least once per week, and sometimes twice. This market isn’t just fruits and veg. We also found a phenomenal bulk spice vendor, pastries and bread, mushrooms of all kinds, and handmade pasta. The quality of ingredients is so high and so affordable that we did a lot of cooking at home. Given our work schedule which begins at 4:00 in the afternoon, a late lunch on the patio became a thing as well as the occasional light meal after work in the cooler air by lamplight.
While our trip two years ago to Lisbon was highlighted by melon, this time in Porto it has been cherries and maracuja (passionfruit). My last regular encounter with maracuja was over 30 years ago when in Peace Corps in east central Africa. In fact, if I have seen any in the U.S. I either 1) can’t remember and/or 2) assume if I did I passed because there is no way they would taste good given the transportation distance. We found a fruit vendor that became our favorite and they had several types of exotic fruits. My guess is ( I didn’t ask) that these are coming across the Mediterranean. We also had the chance to try rambutan but missed out on mangosteen.
One thing we did differently this trip is we took very few photos of meals out. We just didn’t want to be that person in the restaurant or cafe. I can say we had great steak two places, one served with slices of fruit (kiwi and orange) that were fabulous. We were treated to a special local dessert at one cafe with a glass of port. We found an exceptional coffee bistro with avocado toast that rivaled Tanoa Cafe in Lisbon. We also had a lunch of southern Indian cuisine and shared a dosa for the first time ever. The key thing we were wonderfully reminded of is that food is not treated like a commodity. No Cisco-style trucks in sight. Your meal is cooked from fresh ingredients when you order it. Yes, it takes a bit longer but it is always worth it. The other fabulous thing at least in Portugal is that we are never rushed out. You can linger at your table long after you finish your espresso and pastry in the morning or long after you have had your last sip of wine with dinner. You have to tell them when you are ready to pay. There is no pressure to turn the table. Eating is an activity here to be savored.
